How To Buy Quality Olive Oil

If you want good brain health, it starts with good nutrition. And when it comes to olive oil, there's a lot to know about what makes it good for your you!  

After doing some extra online research, I decided that there was too much discrepancy about what constitutes good olive oil and how to use it, so I decided to go straight to the experts. (And, to be truthful, I really wanted to treat myself to some nice oil and vinegar pairings!) Today I had the pleasure of chatting with Deborah at the Canyon Meadows location of Soffritto Oil and Vinegar Bar. The owner of the establishment, Gord Fontaine, trained Deborah well! She was a wealth of knowledge and cleared up every one of the online inconsistencies as well as giving me some new insights. I was so excited to write this after learning so much from Deborah! Let's dive in! 

Photo credit: Soffrito.ca

Natural or Refined?  

Starting with the basics, natural olive oils (versus refined olive oils) are classified by quality standards. When considering natural versus refined, it can be helpful to think of something more familiar like bread and the color. Dark rye or brown whole wheat breads are more natural, whereas white bread has gone through many refining processes, removing all the goodness of the natural product. It's the same with olive oil. To put it simply, a darker oil is less refined and better for you. When looking at olive oil on the shelves, "Light" olive oil doesn't mean lower in calories, it means it's been more heavily refined and will taste lighter, but it has lost most of its nutritional value.  

Meeting Standards 

Olive Oil (OO), the lowest standard, is a blend of natural and refined olive oils (refined olive oil is not high quality). Most of the health benefits such as the natural antioxidants have been stripped away by the refining process. 

Virgin Olive Oil (VOO) is next in line. It's naturally obtained by the same process as EVOO but is still a lower quality oil with some defects. 

Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO) is a very high quality grade with minimal processing, meaning it hasn't been treated with chemicals or heat and contains no additives including flavors. It's also never been heated, hence the term "Cold Press" because heating greatly reduces the quality. Because of the minimal processing, it maintains high amounts of natural antioxidants and Vitamin E from the olive fruit. 

Ultra Premium Extra Virgin Olive Oil (UPEVOO) is the new kid on the block. The Ultra Premium category defines the highest standard of EVOO and is a difficult standard for producers to reach in terms of meeting the requirements set out by Veronica Foods Company in California to distinguish the highest quality olive oils in the world. The UP designation means that the oil's chemical breakdown has been tested and its source is traceable. Detailed information on the label is provided only on oils that have been given the UP designation. 

How to read the UPEVOO label 

Photo credit: Soffrito.ca

Country of Origin 

Oils must be labeled with their source, but read the fine print. An oil that calls itself a “Product of Italy” or “Packed in Italy” can still come from elsewhere—and probably does. On the back label, you can often find the initials of the true country of origin: IT for Italy, TN for Tunisia, PT for Portugal, GR for Greece etc. 

Crush Date 

This refers to the month and year the fresh olives were crushed and you shouldn't buy oil that was crushed longer than a year ago or it will have a much shorter shelf time in your pantry. There are only two major olive oil harvests per year worldwide: May and October/November. Oils from the northern hemisphere are usually harvested in May, and those from the southern hemisphere are harvested later. The longer an oil sits on a shelf, the more the quality deteriorates, so it's best to not store your unopened bottle for more than one or two years and try to use it within a year of opening the bottle. Be sure to store it in a dark, cool place, because light and heat will accelerate the deterioration. For this reason, oils are sold in tins or glass bottles that are opaque to block out the light. The small, clear sample bottles you buy in gift packs for your friends at Christmas are meant to be used quickly. 

Biophenol Number 

This unit (in parts per million, ppm) refers to the natural antioxidant level in the oil, and the higher the number, the better the quality. You will see numbers ranging from 100 to 1200. This is specifically to give you an idea of the health benefits of the oil. There is evidence that biophenols may be helpful in reducing cholesterol levels in the blood in addition to their antioxidant properties. But remember, heat and light reduce the quality of the oil, so if you're using it as a source of antioxidants and Omega 3s, don't cook with it. Save the good stuff for drizzling on salad or finishing a main course to elevate the taste and presentation. 

Note: the higher the biophenol number, the more bitter the taste. Oils with numbers over 300 or so will taste very strong and intense, often peppery and bitter. This takes some getting used to, so if you're buying oil for its health benefits, start with a low biophenol number and work your way up to avoid getting turned off by the strong flavor. 

Squalene Number 

Concerned about your skin? This is what you need to pay attention to then. This number refers to the amount of benefit your skin gets from the consuming the oil. The higher the number, the greater the benefit. Squalene, with its antioxidant properties, is a molecule that mimics your skin's ability to repair and moisturize itself through the activity of sebum, also aiding in the ability to fight inflammation and repair UV damage. (Side note: Deborah told me she started taking UPEVOO to help with her arthritis and noticed a difference after about 6 months.)  

Do not put Ultra Premium olive oil on your skin – it must be consumed, otherwise it will cause a burning sensation. If you want to use olive oil directly on your skin, use EVOO or a product specifically designed for external use such as Tea Tree Olive Oil soaps and lotions.  

Taste Profile  

This is where buying oil is exactly like buying wine! If that doesn't appeal to you, go ahead and skip this section. For my wine-loving friends though, here are some helpful tips: 

1. Weather impacts the flavor of oil just like it does with wine. One vintage will never taste the same as another. 

2. EVOO doesn't improve with age like wine does, so don't stash it away for a special occasion. Use it liberally and often! 

3. For the UPEVOO, the higher the biophenol number, the stronger and more bitter the taste. After tasting some of the more mellow UPEVOOs at Soffritto (with numbers between 175 and 500), I found that many of them had a distinct grassy flavor. My favorite was a milder oil despite the higher biophenol number compared to the others I tasted: Frantoio/Leccino from Chile with a biophenol number of 510ppm. Flavor notes include spicy arugula and bitter greens with a malty, savoury herb centre, delayed bitterness, and lingering pungency. See what I mean about the similarities to wine? 

4. Another example was their Arbequina, with tasting notes: "Displaying a sweet fruity nose, with notes of banana, a creamy almond center and hints of nutmeg on the finish. Well balanced with pleasing, lingering pepperiness". I found this one to be rather strong, despite the slightly lower biophenol number of 417. 

5. Find one you love: Grassy and Fruity – great for pestos or drizzling on fish and chicken. Pungent and Peppery – intense and more bitter and therefore good for heartier greens like kale or spinach.  

Flavored Oils 

If you're in this for the flavor moreso than the wellness perks, you'll be eyeing the fused and infused oils. Let me explain the difference between the two:  

Fused means that the olives were crushed with a flavor source (such as fruit, herbs, garlic, nuts etc.) and bottled and sold immediately. The flavor of the added ingredient will therefore be relatively mild because it hasn't spent much time on the shelf. Infused means that the fruit or herb was added after the crushing and left to settle for a couple of months. This extra time will therefore produce a much stronger flavor as the fruit or herb blends with the oil. The quality will be slightly lower due to the longer shelf time, but the flavor is more intense. Oils with lower biophenol levels are used for infusing so that the heavy taste from the biophenols doesn't mask the lovely added flavors. 

Technically, fused or infused oil is no longer considered "extra virgin", because the fruit or herb will contain some impurities. Additionally, heat is used to infuse the flavor which causes further breakdown of the biophenols and Omega 3s. However, you can infuse your own EVOO with whatever you like and still retain the excellent quality so long as you don't heat it, but know that it will need to settle for quite a while before the flavor becomes intense, which will reduce the quality of the oil. I know it's a difficult trade-off, but you can always have both flavored and unflavored oils in your pantry! 

Butter-flavored oil 

If you just love your butter and don't want to give it up, try a butter-infused olive oil like this one  

before saying "no" to olive oil. It's vegetarian and dairy free, containing only EVOO and natural flavors. The butter flavor actually comes from blending two different types of olives. Use this for cooking or finishing. After tasting it, I totally agree with Deborah that it should be used on popcorn! 

Where to Buy 

Good olive oil doesn't have to be expensive, and surprisingly, the UPEVOO is the same price as the EVOO despite all the extra testing it's undergone to ensure its quality. If you're looking for UPEVOOs in Calgary, they're carried by Soffritto Oil and Vinegar Bar (with a great assortment of fresh pasta and sauces)  and Evoolution in Market Mall (also in Canmore and Banff). You can get a great 375 ml bottle of UPEVOO for around $25 at both locations, which, by the way, is the same price as a good bottle of wine. 

How to Love Olive Oil 

Make your own crispy croutons 

Heating some oil in a pan, then add some crushed garlic and fresh rosemary. Tear up some good bread into bite-size pieces and add to the pan and stir until crispy. 

Marinate your feta.  

Fill a jar half way with olive oil, then add chunks of feta and any herb you like such as rosemary, thyme or basil and salt and pepper if desired. 

Dipping oil 

Add a splash of nice balsamic vinegar and some fresh or dried herbs like basil and oregano to some olive oil and give it a good stir. Sprinkle some finely grated parmesan and maybe some crushed garlic on top and serve with bread. Add salt and pepper to taste! 

Finishing 

Drizzle on baked root vegetables or a Greek salad with hearty Heirloom tomatoes. 

Summing it up 

Use cheaper oils to cook with and save the quality EVOO and UPEVOO for drizzling and dipping, or to simply enjoy a spoonful a day for a healthy antioxidant and Omega 3 boost. 

It's recommended to buy smaller quantities (60 ml) to discover what you like and use them quickly. Once you've found your favorite, buy in larger opaque bottles. They're good for maybe 2 years before opening, but once opened they should be used as soon as possible. If you store your opened bottle in a dark, cool place, it can last for up to a year, but the quality will start to diminish and the flavor will become rancid if left too long. 

I hope this has ignited a desire to experience the flavor and healthy wonderfulness of EVOOs for the first time, or to explore deeper than what you're familiar with! Your brain and heart will thank you.